To offer full client services to individuals and/ or groups actively partaking in the pursuit of a goal in the creation of a home or enterprise within Guatemala.
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SP003 SAN PEDRO EL ALTO GUATEMALA HOUSE FOR SALE 159K
BT006 Hawaii, Guatemala, Beach Front Land for Sale, $50,000
BT005 Los Curvas, Monterrico, Guatemala, Land for Sale, $140,000
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
B018 Livingston Guatemala Eco Lodge 600k
AR018 San Pedro Las Huertas, Guatemala, Gated Community 145k
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AR017 Aldea de Libertad 13.5 Manzanas $6M
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TSP01 San Pedro El Alto Guatemala Land for Sale
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AX010 - Bamboo Group SA - Central Antigua Luxury Colonial Home for sale
Monday, June 28, 2010
Grow Herb Gardens from Seed - wikiHow

How to Grow Herb Gardens from Seed
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Growing an herb garden from seed is a very rewarding endeavor and a fun winter time activity. In general, herbs tolerate poor growing conditions and still reward you with aromatic leaves and flowers.
Steps
- Soak the seeds in water for a few hours, or even overnight, before planting them.
- Assemble the soil and containers for growing the seeds in. Poke holes in the bottom of your containers for drainage. Fill containers full with a soil mixture. Pat down the soil to be sure there are no air pockets or your seeds might drop right to the bottom.
- Sow the herb seeds 1-3 times deeper than the size of the seed. Very tiny seeds need only to be pressed into the soil. Water the seeds and cover the containers with plastic kitchen wrap. This will keep the soil warm and eliminate the need to water until the seedlings emerge. Place flats in a warm, sunny area. Until the seeds emerge, keep the soil damp.
- Remove the plastic once the seedlings emerge. If you plan to transfer your seedlings to the garden, wait until at least two sets of leaves have emerged. Once it is warm enough, start leaving them outside a few hours a day. This will "harden them off" and get them ready for the harsher outdoor conditions. Water well.
- Transplant the plants by pinching off the lower set of leaves. Dig a hole deep enough to hold the plant just over the point where you pinched the leaves. These leaf nodes will grow roots. Gently turn the pot upside down and allow the plant to fall out into your hand. Don't pull the plant by the stem or leaves. Place the plant in hole and pat soil around your plant. Water once daily for a week and twice weekly thereafter. When the plants begin to get bushy, add mulch around them to discourage weeds.
Tips
- Use equal parts perlite, vermiculite, and coir compost for soil. Avoid sphagnum peat moss, which is an environmentally unsustainable product. These can be purchased at a local garden center or discount chain.
- Jiffy-Mix can be used to start seeds.
- Bottom water seedlings to avoid damping off by placing the plants in a pan of water.
- Supplement low-sunlight conditions with fluorescent lighting. Expensive "grow lights" can be purchased from garden catalogs, but a fluorescent house lamp will work.
- Once the seedlings emerge, water them once a day.
- If you make sure you grow organic herbs, you can use them in your cooking.
Warnings
- Over-watering seedlings can cause damping off. Damping off is a fungal disease that causes the stems to break off and the plants to die. Allow the soil to dry for a few hours each day.
Related wikiHows
- How to Cheaply Fertilize a Garden
- How to Design a Successful Indoor Garden
- How to Grow an Herb Garden Indoors Year Round
- How to Grow a TickleMe Plant
- How to Create a Rustic Flower Garden
- How to Construct a Raised Planting Bed
- How to Grow Elephant Ear Plants
- How to Create Your own Mini Garden
- How to Look After Houseplants
- How to Get Dried Sage
- How to Create a Butterfly Garden
- How to Create a Rustic Flower Garden
- How to Carve a Watermelon Flower Garden
Sources and Citations
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Grow Herb Gardens from Seed. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
Make Sunscreen - wikiHow

How to Make Sunscreen
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Commercial sunscreen products often contain propyl compounds and other chemicals questionable for your health;[1] and many of the all-natural products are overly expensive due to the addition of exotic tropical oils for their scent. In addition, many commercial products may have been tested on animals.
When all you really need is cheap, safe protection from the sun's rays, try the following sunscreen recipe.
Steps
- Heat the cup of olive oil over a low flame.
- Add 1 ounce of beeswax, broken into pieces if possible (so that it melts faster).
- Stir constantly until the beeswax is completely melted in the hot oil.
- Put on a pair of gloves and a face mask. This is to protect you from direct contact with the zinc oxide powder. Add one to two tablespoons of USP grade zinc oxide powder. Add a little at a time, continuing to stir constantly. Ensure that it is blended in well.
- Remove the mixture from the stove. Pour it into a glass or ceramic pot that can be covered.
- If pouring into a narrow neck, use a pastry bag to squeeze the sunscreen through.
- If pouring into a narrow neck, use a pastry bag to squeeze the sunscreen through.
- Allow to cool to room temperature before use. Keep stored in a cool, dry environment. Label and date it.
Tips
- If you cannot find the ingredients, buy zinc oxide cream from the drugstore and apply it in place of commercial sunscreen products.
- Try other edible, natural oils; just about anything that is safe to eat ought to be safe on your skin.
- If wished, add a few drops of essential oil for a pleasant scent. If so, check the properties of the oil to ensure it is suitable for wear in the sunshine and has no side effects.
- Titanium dioxide may work as well as, or better than, zinc oxide. Either oxide is what does the "work" of the sunscreen.
- The beeswax makes the resulting product viscous, like a skin cream, holding the oxide in suspension. You can try varying the ratio of oil to wax.
- The beeswax and oxide, if not available locally, can usually be found at auction websites.
Warnings
- Zinc oxide itself may be a health risk, so avoid breathing the powder. A face mask should be worn until the product is all in suspension.
- It's better to dedicate a pan, stirring spoon, and any other necessary utensils for this purpose, never using them for food again. Mark them well so that you know that they're only for non-cooking use.
- It is possible that the oxide will settle while the product is cooling, or during transit in a hot environment. If, when you are applying it, it is translucent, you will need to stir the oxide up from the bottom. If you don't do this, you won't have an effective product; just a false sense of security! A viable product will be opaque.
- Keep out of direct heat or the wax risks melting. Place in the fridge to solidify if this occurs.
- Keep out of reach of curious children and pets. It should not be ingested.
Things You'll Need
- 1 cup olive oil or another natural oil
- 1 oz / 28 g pure beeswax
- Pure (USP grade) zinc oxide or titanium dioxide
- Saucepan
- Spoon for stirring
- Gloves and face mask
- Stove, even a camp stove will work fine
- Glass or ceramic pot with lid for storage
Related wikiHows
- How to Stay Safe in the Sun
- How to Prevent a Sunburn
- How to Use a Trangia Camping Stove
- How to Make a Simple Beverage Can Stove
- How to Survive in the Desert
- How to Choose Sunscreen
Sources and Citations
- This research was made possible, in part, by a land grant from the City of the Sun, http://directory.ic.org/records/?action=view&page=view&record_id=20103; however, the specifics of the research were not coordinated nor endorsed by COSF.
- HealSoAZ.org, http://healsoaz.org/less_toxic_personal_products.htm, original source of this recipe.
- ↑ EWG, CDC: Americans carry burden of toxic sunscreen chemical, http://www.ewg.org/analysis/toxicsunscreen
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make Sunscreen. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
Compost - wikiHow

How to Compost
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Good composting isn't only about building a good bin and correctly mixing the compost. It's also about what you add to the compost. This article will provide a simple outline of what you can and can't compost. Follow the reduce, reuse and recycle way of life to reduce the amount of things you have to end up throwing away.
Steps
- Choose or construct a bin for your compost. While you can compost successfully in a pile on the ground, a bin will keep the process a bit neater and help to discourage animals if you are composting food scraps. Depending on the construction of the bin, it can also help to regulate moisture and temperature. A good minimum size for a pile is at least 1 cubic yard or 1 cubic meter, though a pile can go larger than this, and smaller-scale composting can be made to work.
- Fill your bin with a balanced mixture for best results:
- Green stuff (high in nitrogen) to activate the heat process in your compost. Perfect heat-generating materials include: young weeds (before they develop seeds); comfrey leaves; yarrow; chicken, rabbit or pigeon manure; grass cuttings; etc. Other green items that compost well include fruit and vegetables; fruit and vegetable scraps; coffee grounds and tea leaves (including tea bags - remove the staple if you wish); vegetable plant remains; plants.
- Brown stuff (high in carbon) to serve as the "fiber" for your compost. Brown stuff includes fall (autumn) leaves; dead plants and weeds; sawdust; cardboard & cardboard tubes (from foil wraps etc); old flowers (including dried floral displays, minus plastic/foam attachments); old straw and hay; and small animal bedding.
- 'Other items that can be composted but you may not have thought of before: paper towels; paper bags; cotton clothing (torn up); egg shells; hair (human, dog, cat etc.) Use all these items in moderation.
- Air. It is possible to compost without air (anaerobically), but the process employs different bacteria and an anaerobic compost pile will take on a sour smell like vinegar. It may also attract flies or take on a matted, slimy appearance. If you believe your compost pile needs more air, turn it, and try adding more dry or brown stuff to open up the structure.
- Water. Your pile should be about as damp as a sponge that has been wrung out. Depending on your climate, you can add water directly or rely on the moisture that comes in with "green" items. A lid on the compost bin will help to keep moisture in. If a pile gets too much water in it, it might not get enough air.
- Soil or starter compost. This is not strictly necessary, but a light sprinkling of garden soil or recently finished compost between layers can help to introduce the correct bacteria to start the compost cycle a little more quickly. If you are pulling weeds, the soil left on the roots may be sufficient to serve this purpose. Compost starters are available, but probably not necessary. [1]
- Green stuff (high in nitrogen) to activate the heat process in your compost. Perfect heat-generating materials include: young weeds (before they develop seeds); comfrey leaves; yarrow; chicken, rabbit or pigeon manure; grass cuttings; etc. Other green items that compost well include fruit and vegetables; fruit and vegetable scraps; coffee grounds and tea leaves (including tea bags - remove the staple if you wish); vegetable plant remains; plants.
- Layer or mix the different materials in your bin so that they come into contact with one another and so that you avoid any large clumps. Especially avoid compacting large quantities of green materials together, since they can rapidly become anaerobic.
- If possible, start with a layer of lightweight brown material, such as leaves, to help keep enough air near the bottom.
- Try for a mixture of anywhere from 3 parts brown to 1 part green to half and half, depending on what materials you have on hand.
- Sprinkle each layer lightly with water as you build the heap, if it requires additional moisture.
- If possible, start with a layer of lightweight brown material, such as leaves, to help keep enough air near the bottom.
- Turn your pile regularly, once every week or two. Clear a patch next to the pile. Then use a pitchfork and move the entire pile to the clear spot. When it is time to turn the pile again, move it back to the original spot, or back into the bin. Mixing the pile in this way helps to keep air flowing inside the pile, which encourages aerobic decomposition. Anaerobic decomposition will smell very stinky (generally sour, like vinegar) and they decompose materials more slowly than aerobic bacteria. Turning the pile helps to encourage the growth of the right kind of bacteria and makes for a nice, sweet-smelling pile that will decompose faster.
- Try to move matter from inside to outside and from top to bottom. Break up anything that is clumpy or matted. Add water or wet, green materials if it seems too dry. Add dry, brown materials if the pile seems too wet. If you are still adding to the pile, take the opportunity while you turn it to introduce the new matter and mix it well with the older matter.
- Try to move matter from inside to outside and from top to bottom. Break up anything that is clumpy or matted. Add water or wet, green materials if it seems too dry. Add dry, brown materials if the pile seems too wet. If you are still adding to the pile, take the opportunity while you turn it to introduce the new matter and mix it well with the older matter.
- Decide whether to add slow rotting items such as tough branches, twigs and hedge clippings; wood ash; wood shavings and wood pruning. They can be composted, but you may want to compost them separately because they will take longer to break down, especially in a cold climate with a shorter composting season. Shred heavy materials, if you can, for faster decomposition.
- Try to avoid composting bread, pasta, nuts, and cooked food. They don't break down very easily, become quite slimy, and can hold up the heating, rotting-down process. (Old nuts left in the garden will disappear quickly if you have squirrels or monkeys around!)
- Never compost the following items for reasons of health, hygiene and inability to break down: meat and meat scraps; bones; fish and fish bones; plastic or synthetic fibers; oil or fat; pet or human feces (except for manure of herbivorous creatures such as rabbits and horses); weeds that have gone to seed; diseased plants; disposable diapers (nappies); glossy paper or magazines; coal and coke ash; and cat litter. Place these items in the normal garbage collection.
- Harvest your compost. If all goes well, you will eventually find that you have a layer of good compost at the bottom of your bin. Remove this and spread it on or dig it into your garden beds.
- You may wish to sift it through a coarse mesh screen or use your hands or pitchfork to remove any larger chunks that haven't yet broken down.
- Very fresh compost can grow plants, but it can also rob the soil of nitrogen as it continues to break down. If you think you are not all the way done, either leave the compost in the bin for a while longer or spread it in your garden and let it sit there for a few weeks before planting anything in it.
- You may wish to sift it through a coarse mesh screen or use your hands or pitchfork to remove any larger chunks that haven't yet broken down.
Tips
- Composting works almost magically and FAST if you begin with a cubic yard of proper materials (3 parts "brown" stuff and 1 part "green" stuff), keep it moist, and turn it weekly. It's possible to get two large batches of compost each year if you stick to these points. If you vary, it will just take a bit longer, but it will still compost.
- The fastest way to get compost is to mix 1 part grass clippings and 3 parts dead leaves (chopped with a mower), place in a three-sided bin with no top or bottom, keep it moist, and turn it with a cultivating fork every 2 weeks.
- Locate your compost bin somewhere that is easy to access, so that you and family members will be encouraged to use it.
- Share a composting facility if you live in an apartment complex.
- Have a mini compost bin indoors that you keep near your meal preparation area. It should be something that is easy to fill up, transport daily to the compost bin, and keep clean. You could consider a small plastic container (there are fun tiny garbage cans with lids) or use something as simple as a glazed terracotta plant saucer - it looks nice, is easy to clean and transports easily.
- To aid the decomposing, add some red worms, which can be bought online. If you use a compost bin with an open bottom, the worms will probably come into your compost pile on their own.
- Cut around the top of a plastic milk jug leaving it attached at the handle. Keep it under the kitchen sink to collect your compost.
- For faster break-down, shred leaves, clippings; and crush egg shells.
- At some point, you may need to start a new compost pile, and stop adding to the old compost pile to let it "finish up."
- Layering is very effective if possible - one layer brown stuff, one layer green stuff, one layer composting worms (as long as the temperature of your compost does not exceed 25ÂșC).
- Contact your local municipality if you can't compost for whatever reason, to see if they will collect garden waste for composting. Many municipalities will collect Christmas trees and chip them for compost in January.
- In dry weather, fill your bucket with water each time you dump in the compost pile. This will help add needed moisture.
- If you mow your yard, collect your grass trimmings! It's free, and it's a great way to get more compost, unless you have a mulching mower. A mulching mower will add the grass back to your yard as mulch (not thatch), which will provide your lawn with 40% of its fertilizatin needs. Also, never compost grass that's been mowed within a few days of adding chemical peticides or fertilizers.
- Bury food scraps under a layer of general yard waste if you wish to include them. It will help to discourage animals and flies. So will having a contained, covered bin.
- While it's not strictly necessary, a compost pile that's working at its fastest will heat up. If you have created a good mix, you may notice that it's very warm inside, even steaming on a cold morning. This is a good sign.
Warnings
- Don't add the things to the compost that are marked above as "never compost" - they will absolutely ruin the compost for one reason or another and some are downright unhealthy.
- While it is slowly becoming possible to compost dog feces, this must only be attempted under very special conditions in municipally sanctioned compost bins; usually these are located in local parks. Do not use this compost in or near vegetable and fruit gardens. Check with your local municipality for more information. Encourage your municipality to supply these bins in parks and on dog-walking routes.
- If you are going to compost weeds, dry them out before adding them to the pile. If you don't, they might start to grow.
Things You'll Need
- A location for your compost pile
- Vegetable scraps, yard waste, and other compost materials
- A pitchfork or other tool to turn the compost
Related wikiHows
- How to Build a Compost Bin
- How to Build a Tumbling Composter
- How to Find Free Compost Ingredients
- How to Apply Mulch
- How to Make Your Own Worm Compost System
- How to Use Your Home Built Tumble Composter to Create Rich Compost
- How to Make a Compost Tea
- How to Create Urban Rainforests
Sources and Citations
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Compost. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
Recycle - wikiHow

How to Recycle
from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Recycling is the processes of collecting, processing, remanufacturing, and reusing materials instead of discarding them. This helps conserve raw materials and energy that manufacturers would otherwise use in producing new products. Recycling also reduces the amount of material going into landfills. Recycling helps lessen the pollution that may result from waste disposal. Reducing our consumption of materials and reducing the waste of materials also adds to the conservation of our resources.
Steps
- Find out what recycling programs or centers exist in your area. It's no use trying to recycle something if no processing center exists. A good resource for programs in the U.S. can be found at NRC-Recycle.org.
- Determine what categories of items can be recycled in your area, then designate a separate location for each category. For example, if a nearby center accepts aluminum cans, plastic drink bottles, and newspapers, you will want to have separate bins for each type of item, as well as a waste bin for non-recyclable wastes.
- Leave your bins in an appropriate collection area, or take your recycling to a processing center yourself once you've accumulated enough to make it worth the trip.
Tips
- Many states provide small cash rewards for each item recycled, so it's a good idea to save up the items until you have enough to buy something with the rewards.
- Some centers require you to wash items or remove labels or lids. Find out what your center requires before making the trip.
- Try to avoid making special trips in your car to recycle, as you will be using fuel unnecessarily. Combine it with a trip you are making anyway.
- If you are in school or at work where you use a lot of paper and then throw it away, try having a recycling bin under your desk, or a recycling pocket in your file. Make a mental note to put all recyclable paper in there each time you feel like heading for the normal trash bin.
- Don't just think of the normal items you can recycle, do some research and expand it. Some things you might be able to recycle easily are:
- Batteries (very important)- car batteries, equipment batteries, flashlight
- Beer and wine bottles, jars, other glass items
- Paper and plastic bags (reuse first if possible)
- Magazines, newspapers, phone-books
- Plastic bottles, plastic containers
- Packing peanuts (plastic loose fill) can often be recycled at local postal services. You can locate one at http://www.loosefillpackaging.com/
- Cans and tins
- Juice/soup/milk cartons
- Any items with recycle symbol on them
- Cell phones
- Old televisions
- Old computers
- Batteries (very important)- car batteries, equipment batteries, flashlight
- It is vital to separate the magazines glass cardboard etc and it is especially good to recycle styrofoam because it is one of the things that take FOREVER to decompose
Warnings
- Some items, though recyclable, have few processing centers available.
- Recycling aluminum is still good. It saves money and energy--that's why they pay you for cans.
- Remember to wash/rinse cans and plastic before putting them in their bins. If the bins are inside, this cuts down on any smell. And if your bins are outside, rinsing reduces the likelihood of pets or wandering animals digging through them!
Things You'll Need
- A local recycling center
- Water to rinse the items
- Reusable bags
- Bins in a convenient location
- Recyclable items
Related wikiHows
- How to Recycle Old Plastic Bags
- How to Help Prevent Global Warming
- How to Curb Side Recycle
- How to Save the Planet Earth
- How to Clean Dishes on a Camping Trip
- How to Recycle Cardboard with a Baler
- How to Cut Down on Garbage Pickup Expenses
Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Recycle. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.